HOUSE BREAKING      


     Dog or puppy is either housebroken or not.   If your dog is sneaking off to another room and having an accident, you will have to take some of his freedom away until you can solve the problem.  The longer you allow this type of behavior to exist, the harder it will be to modify.   Unless you can catch him, it really does not do any good to drag him off to the site of his mishap and try and punish him. Keep him in sight if he is bold enough to try something in front of you, say "No," get his attention and take him outdoors quickly so he can finish eliminating in the appropriate area.   Remember, it is your house. He has to earn his freedom through good behavior and this is your responsibility.

     Start by establishing an elimination spot outdoors.  In the morning, clip his leash to his collar and take the dog outdoors to his spot for elimination.  State commands like "go potty" or "hurry up."  After he does his duty, bring the dog inside for food and water.  About 15 to 20 minutes after the meal, take the dog outside again for elimination.  Take your dog to his "spot" at each elimination time. Maintain a regular feeding, drinking, and elimination schedule.  One of the most commonly made errors in housebreaking is rushing too quickly ahead of your dog.  Too much freedom too quickly can cause some confusion.  If your dog experiences an accident or two, you will have to back up and slow down.  Marking should not be confused with housebreaking problems because marking is deliberate.  This behavior will arise in dogs who may be trying to vie for the role of the leader in the household; marking is a way of claiming territory.  It is advised that if you should notice this behavior indoors or out, you strengthen all obedience commands immediately.  This will remove all doubts as to who is in charge around the house.  Providing your dog or puppy with a crate that is way too large may allow him to relieve himself in one end and sleep in the other.  Placing food or water in his crate will allow him to fill up his bladder and bowel and he will have no choice but to relieve himself in his crate.  Make sure you take your dog or puppy outdoors to eliminate on a regular schedule and especially prior to being left for prolonged periods of time.  If you have tried all the above and are still experiencing what you believe to be "Territorial Marking," consult your veterinarian.  Your dog/puppy may have a bladder infection and it's always best to be safe, not sorry.  If your dog/puppy is not spayed or neutered you may want to talk to your veterinarian about this procedure.  It usually has a very positive effect on this type of behavior problem.  Even well-trained dogs sometimes have accidents.  Clean the accident area with a pet odor neutralizer so your dog won't be tempted to repeat his mistake.  A tip to help prevent accidents:

     Do not make sudden changes in his diet.

                                                                      CRATE TRAINING

    Crate training Is not putting your dog/puppy in a cage or jail, and you are not being cruel if you follow these tips.  Dogs feel secure in small, enclosed spaces, like a den.  Dog crates make excellent dens.  It is a safe place for him to stay when you're away or when you cannot watch him.  Watch your own dog around home.  Where do you find him napping in his deepest sleep?  Under the table, desk, chair?  Yes, somewhere out of the traffic pattern where he has a roof overhead and a little privacy.  A crate offers security, a den with a roof, and a place to call his very own where he can go to get away from it all.  There are basically just a few steps in "crate" training and they are as follows: Choose a crate the same size as your puppy/dog.  He should only have enough room to stand up, turn around and lie down.  His crate is for sleeping or for a safe place to be when you cannot be with him.  If you get a huge crate for a small dog, he may eliminate in one end and sleep in the other and you will have defeated the whole purpose of using the crate (dogs do not like to eliminate anywhere where they sleep or eat).  If you have a puppy who will grow into a 60-70 lb. dog, you may have to buy two different crate sizes or purchase a crate with a divider you can move as he grows.  Use a single-word command for your dog to enter his crate, for example, "KENNEL"; throw in a treat or piece of kibble; when the dog/puppy enters, praise him and close the crate door.  Increase the time he spends in the crate before you let him back out.  Remember, your dog still needs time to play and eliminate.  Maintain a regular schedule of trips outdoors so as not to confine him too long.  As a general guide, your puppy can stay in his crate comfortably for as many months as he is old plus one month (2 mth old pup + 1 mth = 3 hours in his crate).

     Always take your puppy/dog outside to the same area in your backyard to eliminate on a leash so you can praise him when his job is finished.  This will take the guesswork out of his visits to the backyard.  And don't forget to play with him and exercise him.  He needs this kind of stimulation for his mental and physical wellness.  Remember, your dog or puppy is a pack animal by nature and he will be looking to you for direction.  Your job as a responsible pet owner is to give him that direction so you can enjoy each other as true companions should.  Avoid giving your dog late night snacks.

                                                                               FEEDING


     Puppyhood is a time of rapid growth and development.  As such, puppies require nearly double the amount of nutrients per pound of food than do older dogs. Puppies need higher levels of nutrients that are not available in regular dog food. Because of their special nutritional needs, your puppy should only receive puppy food for the first year.  Most dog food manufacturers offer a special formula for puppies that is higher in protein (28%-30%), and enriched with the fat soluble and water soluble vitamins, minerals,fats and other essentials your growing puppy needs.

Feeding the first few days

     For the first few days, it is a good idea to continue feeding the same type and brand of puppy food and use the same feeding schedule the puppy was on before he came to you.  Then you can slowly start using the food you have chosen based on information you received from the breeder and veterinarian.  By "slowly" we mean over about 7-10 days go from 100% previous food to 100% new food.  Mix 25% of the new with 75% of the old for several days.  Then make it 50-50 for several days, then 75% new to 25% old.

Type of food

     We never recommend canned food or the semi-moist fake meat burgers. Canned foods are typically higher in calories and fat and are usually 80 to 83 per cent water.  That makes them pretty expensive if you squeeze out the top 4/5 of the can.  The semi-moist foods are about 55% water and use high salt or sugar levels for preservation.  Again you are paying too much for water and puppies don't need the salt and sugar.  Dry foods are only 9 to 11 percent water and are made of the same quality ingredients as the other types.  They are more economical, easier to use and, in our opinion, better for your dog.  Dogs on dry foods typically have fewer intestinal upsets, either diarrhea or constipation.  They have fewer problems with unwanted weight gain.  We see no advantage as far as hair coat or skin quality is concerned with those on canned foods.  Probably the most important advantage of using dry foods and feeding them dry is that the abrasive action of eating them is good for the dog's teeth and gums.  Dog's that constantly eat any of the softened foods always have more dental problems ranging from tarter and plaque build up, abscesses, tooth loss and gum disease.  Any or all of these cause bad breath.  The only thing we dislike more than canned or pre-moistened foods for dogs is table scraps.  We strongly recommend never starting because once you do, it never stops.  Most nutritionists believe that dogs that are on a good quality commercially prepared dry food are nutritionally better off than their owners are.  This has been shown in many studies.  Table scraps are usually higher in calories and certainly aren't balanced.  Neither are they fortified with the vitamins and minerals that dogs require.  There are three forms of commercially produced dog foods: dry kibble, semi-moist (sealed packages) and moist (canned).  Most trainers and veterinarians recommend dry kibble food that has a meat protein source as one of its first two ingredients.  Dry food is the only food choice that helps control plaque while it is being eaten.  It's also the only food that helps satisfy your puppy's need to chew.  In addition, dry food is easy to store, less expensive than alternatives, more conveniently served, palatable and has less odor.  With dog food, you pretty much get what you pay for. Economy brands are cheap and are made of the cheapest ingredients available. As such, their energy values are lower, they use poorer-grade proteins with lower digestibility which means much of the food passes right through their system and is not absorbed.  Premium brands, which include those classified as Super Premium and Performance, use higher quality ingredients from sources with higher biological values.  Because better quality ingredients mean better digestibility, your puppy does not need to eat as much and less waste is produced (which means less to pick up in the yard).  Regular brands, as you could guess, fall somewhere in between.  Remember, the back of the dog food bag doesn't tell the entire story, including important information like percent digestibility--how much of the food your puppy's body will actually use.  Talk to your veterinarian or a professional breeder about the best food for your breed.
 
Table scraps are a No-No.

     Young puppies should not be given table scraps because their digestive tracts are not fully developed and table scraps could cause diarrhea or other gastrointestinal problems.  Table scraps fill them up but do not provide the nutrients their rapidly growing bodies need.  Feeding them from the table teaches them the bad habit of begging; this may make house training more difficult for you.  Table scraps should never account for more than 10% of your mature dog's diet.  No chocolate, no bones that splinter easily, and keep your dog away from high-fat, greasy foods.  Cow's milk can cause problems By the way, when it comes to pets, we consider milk just another table scrap.  Cow's milk has the sugar lactose.  Dogs do not have the enzyme lactase that is necessary to digest it.  That is why they often develop diarrhea or softer stools when given it. Most humans produce this digestive enzyme.  Those that don't are said to suffer from milk intolerances or allergies.  When you see milk or milk by-products listed as ingredients in pet foods, lactose bacteria have been used to break down the sugar into easier digestible forms.  Dogs do not need fresh milk!

Feeding schedule

     The puppy's feeding schedule will be somewhat dictated by your own personal schedule.  We don't want to leave food out for the puppy so that it can eat it whenever it wants.  You need to be there for the feedings because you want the puppy and its entire body on a set schedule.  This is best accomplished by feeding the pup what it will eat at specific times on a specific schedule.  Puppies under six months of age should be fed three times daily; between six and twelve months old, two times daily; and once per day after twelve months of age.  Puppies maturing into adults will naturally decrease the number of feedings per day on their own.

     By feeding on a set schedule, the dog will then go to the bathroom on a more set schedule and make housetraining easier and faster.

     Make it a habit to give the puppy some quiet time after the meal.  Don't let the children romp and play with it for the first hour to an hour and a half after eating. This can lead to some stomach upsets that can sometimes be very serious. The puppy will probably need to go to the bathroom, however.

Amount to feed

     The amount of food given with each meal should never be dictated by what is on the back of the dog food bag.  From our experience, these people obviously want to sell a lot of food. With our own pups, we place an ample amount of food down for them and then after 10 to 15 minutes it is picked up.  You'll soon learn to judge how much they need and, depending on how fast they clean it up, when they need more.  Remember to have water available with or immediately following the meal. One of the biggest complaints that veterinarians hear from dog owners, especially those with animals less than 18 months of age, is that they never eat enough.  The owners feel the dog isn't putting on weight or growing as fast as they think it should.  They are tempted to somehow encourage their animals to eat more.  Don't do it.  The growth rates and appetites of young animals on a good quality food are primarily dictated by their genetics.  Don't try to make your dog grow faster than it should or into something it isn't.  This will only cause problems. Artificially accelerated growth leads to bone and joint disorders.  Feed them the amounts they want and let their bodies dictate their needs.

Treats

     Treats should never account for more than 10% of your puppy's caloric intake (which isn't much in Toy breeds).  Your puppy's food is its sole source for the nutrition it needs so don't "fill up" your puppy on treats before meal time.  Liver products are great treats because they provide nutrients your puppy is unlikely to obtain from any other food source.

     Hard chew treats keep your puppy entertained and improve dental health by exercising the gums and scraping the teeth.  It also satisfies your teething pup's need to chew.  Treats can be used during training to reward good behavior, but be careful not to overdo it.

Rawhide bones

      White rawhide bones are better for Bichons because they will not stain their white beard.  
      A few years ago, one of the major medical schools in this country conducted a laboratory test to answer this question.  The results showed that in groups of test dogs, even in those fed an almost exclusive diet of rawhide, there were no ill effects.  On the other hand, the chewing of rawhide had the beneficial effect of removing plaque from the animals' teeth and keeping them cleaner.  This is significant because periodontal disease is a real problem in many adult dogs.

     Therefore,  It will not only satisfy your pet's natural urge to chew, it will also help keep him healthy.

Water

     Puppies may seem to drink large quantities of water.  They need it and it cannot be deprived of it.  A dog or cat can starve and lose almost all of its body fat and half of its protein mass (muscle) and still survive.  However, if this same patient loses 15% of its body water, it will die.  Water is the most important nutrient of all.

     For dogs of any age that eat dry food, water will be needed to rehydrate it in their stomachs for digestion.  Puppies also need more water per pound than adults do because they are growing.  Growth comes through very active metabolism at the cellular level.  These processes produce many wastes and by-products that are excreted into the blood.  It requires plenty of water to carry these substances to and be flushed through the kidneys.  It is okay to schedule when your puppy drinks, but on a daily basis you must allow them to consume what they want and need.

     Providing fresh water is important.  Infectious agents and diseases such as leptospirosis,Giardia, E. coli, and Cryptosporidium can be transmitted through contaminated water sources.  Providing fresh water greatly reduces the risk of disease and therefore keeps your pet happy and healthy.

     Giving your Puppy and Adult dog BOTTLED Water may help prevent eye draining and staining.